From the paddle to the beach – A Boussinesq shallow water numerical wave tank based on Madsen and Sørensen’s equations

From the paddle to the beach – A Boussinesq shallow water numerical wave tank based on Madsen and Sørensen’s equations.
Orszaghova, J.and Borthwick, A.G.L. and Taylor, P.H.
Journal of Computational Physics, 231 . pp. 328-344. (2012)

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Official URL:http://www.elsevier.com/locate/jcp
Abstract:This article describes a one-dimensional numerical model of a shallow-water flume with an in-built piston paddle moving boundary wavemaker. The model is based on a set of enhanced Boussinesq equations and the nonlinear shallow water equations. Wave breaking is described approximately, by locally switching to the nonlinear shallow water equations when a critical wave steepness is reached. The moving shoreline is calculated as part of the solution. The piston paddle wavemaker operates on a movable grid, which is Lagrangian on the paddle face and Eulerian away from the paddle. The governing equations are, however, evolved on a fixed mapped grid, and the newly calculated solution is transformed back onto the moving grid via a domain mapping technique. Validation test results are compared against analytical solutions, confirming correct discretisation of the governing equations, wave generation via the numerical paddle, and movement of the wet/dry front. Simulations are presented that reproduce laboratory experiments of wave runup on a plane beach and wave overtopping of a laboratory seawall, involving solitary waves and compact wave groups. In practice, the numerical model is suitable for simulating the propagation of weakly dispersive waves and can additionally model any associated inundation, overtopping or inland flooding within the same simulation.
Item Type:Article
Subjects:Coasts > General
ID Code:639
Deposited On:02 Apr 2013 10:30
Last Modified:14 Aug 2014 09:14

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